Monday, June 21, 2010

Chicken Fricassee


My experience with a main dish was far more satisfying than my attempt at dessert. I decided to make an old standard in my family - chicken fricassee. I honestly don't know if there was ever a true recipe, my grandmothers both cooked by taste. I followed the Joan Nathan recipe found in Jewish Cooking in America. I left some items out, such as giblets and use ground turkey instead of ground beef - a health conscious upgrade.


As noted by many definitions and many authors chicken fricassee is a stew - Boston Globe columnist Ted Weesner Jr. (2002) calls fricassee "a dressed up stew". It dates back in some form to the 17 century("A Fricassee Enhancement"). Joan Nathan in referring to Mimi Sheraton's recipe says meatballs were included once the recipe was brought to America.


To my recollection, chicken fricassee was one of those foods created out of necessity: left over bits and pieces(including the feet) of the chicken were added to the stew pot. It was important to stretch that chicken to feed a large family.


Rationing out a chicken has its place in this era as well, as author Tina Wasserman in the November 2006 issue of Reform Judaism Magazine discusses how the relaxing of anti religious laws in Cuba has lead to a resurgence in observance. As meat in general is hard to come by, chicken fricassee again becomes a staple, allowing the small ration of chicken to feed many("Cooking: Malagas and Mangoes with a Cuban Minyan").


The flavor and smell brought me back 40 years to Shabbat dinners in Crown Heights, multi-generational diners and a feeling of comfort brought about through loving family and good food! There never seemed to be enough challah to mop up the gravy! Now my waistline dictates there should be very little challah to soak up the sauce - perhaps brown rice? Some combinations just seem to cross too many boundaries...I settled for a Middle Eastern compromise, couscous!


It is funny how Jews added meatballs perhaps as Joan Nathan and Mimi Sheraton suggest to indicate abundance, just as the Italians did. Perhaps this where immigrants in many ways share a common bond: a wish for prosperity in the new world, maybe even borrowing traditions such as meatballs. Of course there is a difference in how these meals are served and perhaps what the dishes represent. Fricassee with its meatballs is Shabbat. Maybe meatballs served in an Italian house represents a favorite holiday or family gathering. Of course cheese, butter and bread would only be found along side meatballs in an Italian house, not in a house that observes kashrut.


While the concept of kashrut seems to separate us from the rest of the world, why can't it also be a way to inform and teach why it is important in a Jewish home - we may not be able to partake of all the riches to be found in a non-kosher meal, but there is no reason we can't share our way of life with others, showing we are not missing anything, indeed the flavors become richer when shared with people you care about.

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

Babka, bubbies, kashrut and me

According to Joan Nathan(2007) in her article "Inviting an Old Favorite to the Hanukkah Table" a babka brings to mind different forms and tastes, depending on what part of the world the baker came from:

".....babka became a Jewish favorite because Eastern European cooks found common ground....The Italians called theri version panettone , the French baba au rhum and the Viennese and Alsatians kugelkopf...Jews called it babka the diminutive of baba and gave it their own twist when they came to to the United States...In Polish or Yiddish, babka is the diminutive of baba, meaning old woman or grandmother......"

I guess one could think of babka as a culinary remedy for the Diaspora!

Babka was always the perfect end to a perfect meal! Growing up in a kosher home, it was always the perfect end to a dairy meal. We had a babka to mark the end of Shabbat services at kiddush and the celebrate the end of along Yom Kippur fast. I suppose one could say a babka was the always the perfect end, period!

While I no longer observe kashrut, there are some foods that simply can not be eaten in combination or at the same meal. It took me many years to realize that some people eat sour cream with latkes. We never had latkes with a dairy meal - chicken or a brisket perhaps - applesauce only! I still can only think of enjoying a babka after a bagel and white fish salad- never chopped liver!

I have grandparents who came here from Poland at the beginning of the 20th century and I have grandparents who were born and bred in the United States. I do not have any memory of a grandmother slaving at a stove to make this cake. Now that I have attempted to bake it myself, it is clear why - TOO MUCH WORK! I admit it, my fond babka memories come from a carton with a blue and white string wrapped around it. Who could forget a babka by Ebbingers?

Not only is babka a part of my fondest kosher memories, it is also locked into my NY time capsule. The truth is, there is no such thing as babka in the south! Miami may claim to have a babka supply, likely old stale boxes languishing on a store shelf. I am sorry, nothing can top that fresh confection that came out of that cardboard box!


Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Babka link

another recipe is on the way! Meanwhile here's a great link:

http://www.nytimes.com/2007/12/05/dining/05babk.html

Monday, June 7, 2010

babka bits 2


Ok so my first effort fell a little "flat" - my apologies to Ms Fischbein and the Kosher by Design crew - "Pull Apart Chocolate Babka" came out like fall apart chocolate babka! It could be because my daughter couldn't wait til it cooled or too much of something (TLC perhaps). At LEAST it tasted better than it looked :)

Sunday, June 6, 2010

babka bits


My first attempt to try cooking a Jewish dish...so many recipes...so little time! I may have to try the shortcut version in the Kosher by Design cookbook and then try a more authentic approach